John Galliano

John Galliano

John Galliano

John Galliano

Paris, Spring-Summer 2012 - Unlike women’s fashion, menswear seems to move more slowly, with longer periods of transition between one trend to another. The men’s fashion week in Paris, that began on Wednesday 22nd, seems to confirm this theory.

What we saw during the third day of shows was more of the same trends we are already familiar with. We’ve seen many checked patterns in the collection of Junya Watanabe, more stripes on the beautiful clothes of Kris Van Assche and vivid colours presented by Walter Van Beirendonck and the Brazilian Gustavo Lins.

The new possibility emerging this season is the use of colour white in looks from head to toe. This was the look proposed by the most influential designers like Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garcons and Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent.

What everybody was waiting for today was the presentation of John Galliano’s brand – the first collection presented which hasn’t been designed by its founder. Since he suffered the accusations of anti-Semitism in February this year, John was dissmissed by the brands that he worked for. In the case of today’s show it was visible that the creative team – leaded from now on by Bill Gaytten - continued Galliano’s work, but without that touch of exaggeration for which the Englishman is known for.

What we saw this time was a collection inspired by the cultural life of London of the 1960s – more commercial than before though – but still has the strong identity of the designer’s creations. On the catwalk the models were dressed as David Hockney and Peter Blake and also as Galliano himself. Like clones. The difficult situation that the brand is in at the moment seems to mirror one of the great dilemmas of fashion: when you do not have the original, you go with the copy.

Below more images of the shows of the day:

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe

Julius

Gustavo Lins

Gustavo Lins

Walter Van Beirendonck

Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche

Text and photos: Hermano Silva © 2011