Why this is a pivotal moment on the men’s fashion history. Fashion critic Cathy Horyn explains in an interview for The Gentleman

By Hermano Silva

In the early 2000’s there was the “metrosexual” popularization – an expression created by the media to define the very latest looks and habits in urban men’s fashion. The term metrosexual referred to men who embraced their vanity and feminine side – at least for the mirror. They became more concerned with depilation, tanning, and with making their bodies ripped.

We have seen by the beginning of 2010’s a new direction: boys from all over the world interested in a more masculine image – a choice manifested very clearly by the current preferences for beard and moustaches. Perhaps this is a reaction to the image of David Beckham that has become fixed into our minds, or because in times of social or cultural uncertainties the sexual differences and genders definitions tend to be reinforced. Just think about the effects of economic crisis and how the working structure is changing – people are more mobile and to work from home is now seen as something totally normal.

This is the decade where the individualism seems to be finally celebrated by men in their style of dress. Some might say this individualism is based on archetypes of masculinity, such as soldiers, lumberjacks and workers. Perhaps true. But wait… Did someone imagined Village People band? Yes, fashion has its’ risks. But I believe that it is only now that men really seem to have the self-confidence to take risks and to experiment without shame.

If we carefully observe the spring-summer 2012 collections presented in Milan and Paris this past June, they confirm that the ideal man is on a new and different track. It’s about experimenting ideas that in the past he didn’t dare try, such as being more colourful, more keenly focused on good and collectible items and intuitively aware of what Fashion is all about – fun perhaps?

Cathy Horyn, the fashion critic of “New York Times”, speculates that “the current ideal man is an individual man”. In an exclusive interview for The Gentleman website, she gives her opinion: “I think the better designers tend to acknowledge that man have a very broad view of fashion today. There was a very hardcore fashion consumer in the 1980’s and early 1990’s, who was most probably gay and who had a very huge interest in being expressive about their clothes. There were also designers like Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier to fulfil that…”, she observes.

“I think now though a lot of men gay, straight, doesn’t matter, have a very good knowledge of fashion, of who is designing. They want to be comfortable; they live in an urban area; they’ve got to be polished for work, but they can also wear jeans and t-shirt most of the time or even shorts. They want a good bag, they want a good briefcase, good shoes”, Horyn concludes.

The male consumer has become more purist and more conscious about his choices. Now we see some of the best menswear designers (such as Lucas Ossendrijver for Lanvin, Junya Watanabe and Paul Smith) presenting clothes on the catwalk that don’t look like designer’s clothes. They are just very good independent items: well-constructed, precise, definitive. Perhaps fashion – in the purest sense of the word – is not as interesting anymore and is giving way to style. Designers know their clients are more self-confident and they will choose what fits them best. And for those who still yearn for the more playful and outlandish? No worries, this season Prada is there to play with.

It now appears that man will continue to re-invent and romanticize who they want to be. The fabrics, colours and accessories will express this individualism carefully – perhaps far from the constraints of the suit uniform. Even if the suit is a choice, it will be for sure a very well thought-out one.

Click here to read the exclusive The Gentleman’s coverage of the Spring/Summer 2012 menswear collections

Credits for the images: Looks from Lanvin, Junya Watanabe, Paul Smith, Dries Van Noten and Prada (Monica Feudi / Style.com, Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com), Cathy Horyn (photo via Twitter) and still from “Altered States”, from director Ken Russell.