After our coverage of the men’s fashion shows in London, Florence and Milan, it’s time to have a closer look into the work of young designers of Berlin. Below a selection of the main designers and their collections:
Hien Le designs both male and female collections which dialogue very well with each other. Born in Laos, Vietnam, but raised in Germany, he always seems to be consequent in his choice of materials and topics. The designer always manages to give a delicate touch to the cold language that minimalism has sometimes – perhaps because he likes to maintain a connection with the East. His summer 2013 was one step further than the usual for bringing a splash of tropical colors and prints that he attributes to his inspiration, the TV series “Miami Vice.” For winter he looked at the paintings of the master abstractionist Mark Rothko. Everything is about an elegant combination of colors with subtle transitions.
One of the characteristics of Goetze’s work are the small details on the clothes that are best seen closely. Her collections are regarded as evolutions from each other. Both summer and winter collections were inspired by children’s clothing that Goetze projected into an adult body. For summer she reinvented school uniforms with rounded collars, small pockets and bags with vintage look. Her latest collection continued a research on the sleeves, in which they are half-raglan and half traditional. There were also sleeves with the fake effect of a t-shirt worn over a shirt. All that executed in a neutral color palette of blacks, grays and whites. Click here to read more about Goetze’s work.
Among all the fashion designers represented here, the Swiss Julian Zigerli perhaps is the least minimalist of the group. He always likes to work with prints but still he is very concerned with the function of the design. He develops utilitarian pieces, with lots of pockets and Velcro. One of his key-pieces is a vest that is also a backpack, for example. For summer 2013 he rescued the story of his father who was a pilot and developed prints inspired by the sky in its different hours. For winter 2013/2014 the inspiration was the sensation caused in our body when we cry happy tears, resulting in a bold print of veins.
One of the few young designers from Berlin scene that is dedicated exclusively to menswear, Kettritz proposes an urban fashion that is simple to wear. His summer collection 2013 focused on tailored shorts, bermudas and baseball jackets. He even created a raincoat that has a transparent back and during the show left the model’s derrière on display. Despite not performing regularly on the calendar, it’s possible to note that Kettritz always cherish a clean and contemporary look.
His dresses are some of the most desired among cool girls from Berlin, though Karaleev is still a relatively new name. In winter 2013 the designer has developed a masculine capsule in which he preserved a lot of the spirit of his women’s collections. His designs look unstructured like delicate collages of different fabrics sewn together. They awaken our desire to touch them. Perhaps because the clothes look unfinished and at the same comfortable in their grunge-chic nature.
More of our exclusive coverage of the AW 2013/2014 season:
Photos: Amos Fricke (Hien Le SS2013); Huss Truong (Hien Le AW2013/2014); Hermano Silva (Sissi Goetze SS2013); Roman Goebel (Sissi Goetze AW 2013/2014); Hermano Silva (Julien Zigerli SS2013); Jonas Hegi (Julien Zigerli AW 2013/2014); Courtesy Hannes Kettritz/Arne Eberle and Stefan Kraul (Vladmir Karaleev AW 2013/2014).