By Hermano Silva
The 82nd edition of Pitti Uomo trade fair ended June 22 at the Fortezza da Basso, Florence, with good expectations despite predictions claiming that the Italian fashion industry will close the year 2012 in red. The hope of the Italian industry is based on the exports and those were high in this season of the event (see below).
Pitti Uomo, hosted in the city since September 1972 to promote the new collections of the Italian men’s fashion industry, concentrated 1059 brands during four days.
The theme of this season was “WonderFood” in an attempt to make a warning about the importance of food in our day to day life and its impact on the environment. The event decorator Oliviero Baldini reflected the theme with an installation made of 35 scarecrows – each wearing an outfit from a different designer.
There were a total of 11 platforms divided according to the identity of the brands. As always it was possible to find clothes for all kinds of ages, situations and lifestyles, and they were divided into themes such as “Alternative Set”, “Future Machile”, “Sport & Sport”, etc. A new area called “Make”, for example, was devoted only to brands that produce handmade products.
Among the main trends presented are: 1.) military-inspired clothes that have olive green and camouflage as a flagship; 2.) the continuation of vibrant colours, but this time with a fluorescent touch; and 3.) the influence of sports like surfing and cycling (in fact, some brands have launched lines totally dedicated to cycling).
“It is interesting to start the season in Florence because much of what is shown is what actually will hit the stores”, explains the American Bruce Pask, editor of the men’s fashion magazine “T” of ”New York Times”. “A lot of trends start here and gain strength in the launches of following fashion weeks”, Pask said to The Gentleman website.
Pitti Uomo which is held with the support of the Italian Ministry of Economic Development saw an 8% increase in the number of foreign buyers (7.400) and 16% decrease in the number of Italian buyers (10.400), according to figures released by the organizer.
Although the French were the largest importers of Italian menswear in 2011, in the case of Pitti Uomo the largest buyers of this season were the Germans, followed by Japanese and Spanish. Many search for the suits made of lightweight and sophisticated fabrics for which Italian tailors became known for.
Despite the appeal of global brands present at the fair, the new designers are not left out. On the contrary, they are very well supported. The “New Beats” section features a selection of new designers that are discovered by the organization on research trips around the world. The fair also has a contest called “Who is on Next? Uomo” to promote young designers that are Italian or based in Italy.
In 2011 the winners were Andrea Pompilio and Emiliano Rinaldi, who since then have presented their fashion shows at the event. This year the Italian designer Andrea Cammarosano (pictured above) won the top prize as well as the prize awarded by the on-line store Yoox.com. Cammarosano can market his collections exclusively on their website from September onwards.
The institution that organizes the fair also invites two guest brands to present their collections every season. This time the brand Carven was the guest of Pitti Uomo, while the womenswear brand Peter Pilotto was invited by Pitti W – the trade fair dedicated to women’s fashion and that happens in parallel.
If you’re buyer and missed the trade fair but would like to participate you can still visit the virtual version of the site: E-Pitti.com. There you can see the products of the exhibitors and also close deals with them.
The Gentleman website travelled at the invitation of the Pitti Uomo event
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Photos: Hermano Silva and M. Michelsanti / courtesy Pitti Uomo