By Hermano Silva
FLORENCE – Please find below a summary of the menswear fashion shows for the spring-summer 2013 during Pitti Uomo.
The designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli presented the new men’s collection of Valentino in one of the buildings of the Boboli Gardens. Using military uniforms as a starting point, the collection was full of utilitarian items such as parkas and trench coats. They are ideal for the modern man to wear on informal occasions. Although the bags are luxurious and the tailoring impeccable, all looks were combined with coloured sneakers. It’s the relaxed Italian style gaining a new interpretation through the hands of those who understand what they are doing.
The olive green and camouflage that has been seen in other collections and in the corridors of Pitti Uomo were also present in much of the Valentino looks. The piece that will certainly end up in the wardrobe of many customers is the new white shirt. It is wider and it has volume at the shoulders and the back.
The Italian who won the award for best designer in the competition for new talents “Who’s Next?” in 2011 now returns to the event to show his new collection. After gaining experience on brands like Calvin Klein, YSL and Prada in the past, the designer ventures increasingly into his own ideas and does not disappoint. What we saw were clothes that give a sophisticated modern look to those who wears them. The collection features vertical stripes (trend), fabrics with wax effect and many shorts.
The French designer presented his new collection on the entrance stairs of the main building of Pitti Uomo in a heat of 37 degrees. The models showed a lightweight, commercial and ‘easy to digest’ kind of collection. In the context of Florence this choice works better than in the highly creative environment of Paris, where Mabille usually presents his collections. The colour palette of pinks, blues and black in checked gingham was combined with many whites pieces – those perfect for high summer as we had in Florence.
Photos: Hermano Silva and G. Gianonni/courtesy Pitti Uomo
Video: N. Fiorelli / Pitti Uomo